Uued retseptid

Forcella avaneb Manhattanil, serveerib Zeppole pitsa

Forcella avaneb Manhattanil, serveerib Zeppole pitsa

Ma olin natuke hirmutatud, kuid põnevil, et lähen eelmisel õhtul Bowery Streeti lipulaeva New Yorgi Napoli pitsa stseeni uusima täienduse avamisele: Forcella. Olen olnud kriitiline selle üleoleva olemuse suhtes Vera Pizza Napoletana ühendus („VPN”), isehakanud pitsapolitsei, kui soovite, dikteerides, mis on „õige” Napoli pitsa, ja jättes laiemalt kõrvale kogu muu pitsa, sealhulgas kohaliku „New Yawki” pitsa, kui mitteautentsed. Forcella omanik/peakokk Giulio Adriani on VPN -i inspektor.

Võluv, raske itaalia aktsendiga ja sportlik ZZ Topi habeme ekvivalent, küsisin Giulio käest, millisest Itaalia osast ta pärit on. "Muidugi, Napoli," vastas ta ja võis mulle ette kujutada, et see tähendab, et enne pizzaahju lähedusse lubamist tuleb nende sünnitunnistus kontrollida. Ja milline ahi! Uhked mustvalged plaadid emamaalt sisse toodud ja armastusega kokku pandud. (Foto viisakalt GutterGourmet)

Muidugi pole VPN ja nende Napoli sarnased linnale uued. Enne Kesté, Donatella, Una Pizza Napoletana (nüüd San Franciscos), Motorino, Rossopomodoro (asub aastal Eataly, mitte vähem) ja Olio (kus Giulio töötas enne Forcella avamist Williamsburgis ja Manhattanil), New Yorgi pitsabaaridele meeldib Pizza Fresca ja Napoli 45 väitsid oma üleolekut VPN-i kaarti kandvate liikmetena. Napoli 45 jõudis nii kaugele, et väitis, et tainasse segamiseks hankis ta kohalikku allikavett, mis vastas peaaegu Napoli ümbritsevat kompgna voolavate ojade keemiliste ja mineraalsete ainete sisaldusele rohkem kui New Yorgi kraanivesi (mida ma eelistan endiselt Evianile) ).

Forcella, mis on Napoli naabrus ja sõna, mis muide tähendab õõtshooba ja kahvlit, püüab selgelt Napoli New Yorki importida. Eelroogade hulka kuuluvad väikesed kroketid, arancini, bruschetti ja isegi zuppa di fagioli. Kõik maitsvad. Uksel märkasin mõnda New Yorgi pitsatasu külaliste nimekirjas, sealhulgas Adam Kuban ja Scott Wiener, ja laiguline Paulie Gee restoranis. Siis istusin maha ja pitsad (mille kohta Giulio teatas, et VPN -iga kulub küpsetamiseks maksimaalselt 75 sekundit), hakkasid rullima.

Itaalia kuninganna nime saanud Margherita oli väga tore. Marinara koos raske küüslaugu, pune ja mozzarella asemel lihtsalt pecorinoga oli imeline. Pizze (VPN-i kohta kirjutatud "pizze", ma arvan) bianche'i esindas Decumani, luksuslik, valge, ilma tomatita kastmes kaunitar, mis on kaetud omatehtud mozzarella, rukola, pecorino ja (rõõm!) Trühvlitega.

Oleksime kõik Napolile igavesti võlgu, kui see leiutaks ainult pitsa. Kuid Roomas lõuna pool asuvas linnas oli veel üks imeline leiutis, mille õnneks on ka New York omaks võtnud. Näete seda igal linna tänavamessil ja karnevalil; niipalju, et vannutaksite nagu pizza, et meie, New Yawkerid, oleme selle leiutanud: tseppool.

See on puhas geenius: lihtne praetud tainas, mis on kaetud tuhksuhkruga. Tõepoolest, Forcella kasutab praepannit hästi, võttes taignatükke ja duššides neid mitte ainult tuhksuhkruga, vaid ka Nutellaga (leiutatud Albas, mitte Napolis). Veelgi parem oli millefoglie, mis oli nagu Prantsuse Napoleon, mis on tuletatud Napolitainast, leiutatud aastal, arvasite seda.

Kuid õhtu naelaks oli pizze fritte. Kujutage ette, kui võimalik, hiiglaslik lame tseppool, mis on kõigepealt kergelt praetud ja pärast seda on see suhkru asemel kaetud San Marzano (väike linn lähedal, jah, Napoli) tomatikastme ja mozzarella di bufalaga (mis on tähistatud DOC-iga) Itaalia Campania piirkonna kaubamärk, mille pealinn on… ära sunni mind seda uuesti ütlema). Seejärel lõpetatakse see lühidalt puuküttega ahjus. Seda nimetatakse Montanaraks ja sellel on täiesti ainulaadne tseppoolitaoline tekstuur. Minu uurimistöö põhjal ei ole see sama, mis kahepoolne täiesti friteeritud pitsafritta Napoli tänavatelt. Kuigi see võib VPN-i relvastada, tahaksin mõelda, et võib-olla võib see olla midagi sellist, mida võib leida ainult sellest teisest pitsa valmistamise ja suurepärase kraaniveega linnast New Yawkist.


Kas see Itaalia pitsameister saab seda NYC -s lõigata?

Novembri lõpus toimuval kiirel ööl kogunesid pitsatootjad üle kogu riigi, toidumeedia liikmed ja isegi linnapea de Blasio Bowery uude pitsabaari, valmistudes maitsma ülevat. Tuntud Itaalia pizzaiolo Gino Sorbillo, vahest kõige kuulsam pirukatootja Napolis-pitsa sünnikoht-tähistas oma kauaoodatud samanimelise restorani avamist. Kui piduliste seas möödus auravate kuumade pirukate rongkäik, kõlasid tavapärased ajakirjandussõbralikud kiidusõnad ja#8230, aga ka vaikne kriitika, mis kostis „supiste” lisandite ja „nätske”, „märja” taigna kohta.

Kas valitsev Napoli pitsa kuningas saab Suure õunaga hakkama? Praegu on segased arvustused vaid üks tema väljakutsetest.

Itaalias on 43-aastasel Sorbillol pitsatootja ja telenägu Vesuviusest suurem maine. Kuigi turistid ja kohalikud kannatavad tema asukohtades Napolis ja Milanos tundide kaupa, tundub New Yorgi aastakümnete pikkune Napoli trendi hullus jahtunud-see annab võimaluse uutele kinnisideedele, nagu ruudukujuline sügavroog Detroiti stiil, mis on tohutult tabanud selliseid liigeseid nagu Emmy Squared, samuti vanaema viilu taaselustamine.

Gino Sorbillo on valmis New Yorki vastu võtma. Liz Clayman

Enne novembrikuist sündmust ennustasid pitsahuvilised, et Sorbillo võib puuküttega tulekahjusid taaskord ahhetada, et saada pundunud pirukaid, millele on lisatud San Marzano tomatid ja värske mozzarella. Kuid tema esimene NYC ettevõtmine, aprillis Väikeses Itaalias avatud praetud kalsooni ja pitsa söögikoht Zia Esterina, on juba lukku läinud. (Sorbillo publitsist Shari Bayer ütles, et sulgemise põhjustas kõrvalhoone kahjustus ja see on ajutine.)

Uuel Bowery kohapeal on oma probleemid. Sorbillo sõber ja kaaslane pizzaiolo Giulio Adriani on juhtinud mitmeid selle koha restorane: Forcella, A Slice of Napoli ja pizza-speakeasy, SRO. Adriani sõnul sulges ta 2016. aasta alguses pärast ebaühtlast äri ja suurt üüritõusu. (Williamsburg Forcella on endiselt avatud.)

"See on karm valdkond, kuid suurim probleem on [alkoholivaba litsentsi puudumine]," ütleb Adriani, kes aitas kaasa Neapolitan Expressi pitsaautode turuletoomisel ja esitleb uut kiiret juhuslikku ettevõtmist Local Pizzaiolo. Jaanuaril Atlantas.

Kui ta 2010. aastal NYC -sse saabus, Olio e Piú avamiseks, ütleb Adriani, et võite ühelt poolt nimetada kõik linna autentsed Napoli pizzeriad: Kesté ja Motorino, millele järgnes peagi Paulie Gee oma. Nüüd kurdab ta: "neid on liiga palju nimetamiseks."

"Kui ma [Kesté] 10 aastat tagasi avasin, oli lihtne head tööd teha," ütleb Roberto Caporuscio, kes laiendas hiljuti oma algset pitsabaari Williamsburgis ja finantspiirkonnas, kus ta on ehitanud ka pitsakooli. „See on [isegi] palju muutunud võrreldes viie aasta taguse ajaga, kui ma Don Antonio avasin. Täna peate olema väga täpne ja ettevaatlik. ”

Pole kahtlust, et Sorbillol on koduriigis ikoonistaatus.

"Tema pere on 100 % pitsa - tõeline suguvõsa, mitu põlvkonda," ütleb Scott Wiener Scott's Pizza Toursist.

"Pizza on minu elu - minu igapäevane toit, minu elukutse ja minu ajalugu," ütleb Sorbillo (tõlkija kaudu), keda õpetasid pitsat tegema tädi Zia Esterina ja tema isa Salvatore, kes on 19. lapsed - kõik pizzaiolid. "Kui olin laps, said mu sõbrad reisida ja ma tegin ainult pitsat ja läksin kooli."

Kuid selline ajalugu ei hoia New Yorgi elanike jaoks palju varusid.

„New York City ei ole lihtne turg,” ütleb Ribalta tegevkokk Pasquale Cozzolino, kes kolis 2011. aastal Napolist New Yorki. „Michelini tärniga kokkasid on palju, kuid New Yorklased ei hooli sellest, kas olete kuulus kusagil mujal maailmas. Nad tahavad sind siin näha, töötades kõvasti. Nad tahavad näha, et sa tõestad, et oled nende jaoks õige. ”

Kuigi Sorbillo plaanib sageli New Yorgis viibida, saab tema kodubaasiks Napoli, kus ta on juba võitnud tiheda pitsakonkurentsi. Ta astus maffia vastu, keeldudes nende toiduaineid ostmast, ja taastus kiiresti pärast 2012. aasta süütamisrünnakut, mida kahtlustatakse maffias.

Sorbillo asemel Bowery ahju ääres on kolm tema usaldusväärset pitsa valmistajat, kes kõik on töötanud vähemalt kolm aastat tema Napoli kauplustes. Tema menüü on otsustavalt itaaliapärane, alates klassikalisest Margheritast kuni Nduja pirukani, mis on valmistatud vürtsikast Calabria määritavast salaamist. Ja ta kasutab sama mahejahu ja 20-tunnist taigna käärimist nagu kõikides oma asukohtades. Kuid see detail kvaliteediga ei pruugi Ameerika maitsemeeltele meeldida.

Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana andmetel on enim tellitud Napoli pirukas Margherita (millele on lisatud San Marzano tomatikaste, värske mozzarella ja värske basiilik) - range retsept, mis kuulub Euroopa Liidu garanteeritud traditsioonilise eriala alla. Tundmatute Ameerika maitsete puhul peab Adriani ütlema, et Sorbillo peab tegelema klientidega, kes kurdavad, et pitsa on märg.

"Meil [New Yorgi Napoli tegijatel] on kõigil olnud sama probleem ja#8230 ning me igaüks otsustasime, kuidas sellega toime tulla," ütleb Adriani tekstuurilise erinevuse kohta. Näiteks kohandas ta oma retsepti, et kasutada vähem kastet ja koostisosi, mis eraldavad vähem vett, näiteks eelnevalt röstitud seened ja värske mozzarella, mis on üleöö nõrutatud.

Sorbillo ütleb, et ta ei plaani ühtegi oma retsepti muuta - tema pirukad on tema pirukad.

Tema pitsa on suurem kui tüüpilised Napoli pirukad, mida linnas seni nähtud, väiksema koorikuga - stiilis nimega “ruota di carretto” ehk vaguniratas. "Meie eesmärk on tasakaal piiri ümber, kus koostisosad on hästi jaotatud," ütleb Sorbillo. "Muidu, kui seda kokku voltida, on see liiga [tülikas] ja raske süüa."

Paul Giannone, rohkem tuntud kui mees Greenpointi Paulie Gee taga, mis pakub Napoli inspireeritud pirukaid, on Sorbillo võimaluste suhtes optimistlik.

"See pole lihtsalt keegi, kes avab Napoli pitsabaari-see on Napoli auväärseim Napoli pitsatootja ja mul on suur au teda omada," ütleb Giannone, kes on oma esimese viiluliigendi avamise äärel oma originaalsete tervete pirukate lähedal. -ainult asukoht.

Ükskõik, mis Manhattanil juhtub, Sorbillo ei karda.

"Olen väga kangekaelne," ütleb ta, "ja liigun edasi oma fookusega, milleks on pitsa: traditsioon, innovatsioon ja koha pärand."


Kas see Itaalia pitsameister saab seda NYC -s lõigata?

Novembri lõpus toimuval kiirel ööl kogunesid pitsatootjad üle kogu riigi, toidumeedia liikmed ja isegi linnapea de Blasio Bowery uude pitsabaari, valmistudes maitsma ülevat. Tuntud Itaalia pizzaiolo Gino Sorbillo, vahest kõige kuulsam pirukatootja Napolis-pitsa sünnikoht-tähistas oma kauaoodatud samanimelise restorani avamist. Kui piduliste seas möödus auravate kuumade pirukate rongkäik, kõlasid tavapärased ajakirjandussõbralikud kiidusõnad ja#8230, aga ka vaikne kriitika, mis kostis „supiste” lisandite ja „nätske”, „märja” taigna kohta.

Kas valitsev Napoli pitsa kuningas saab Suure õunaga hakkama? Praegu on segased arvustused vaid üks tema väljakutsetest.

Itaalias on 43-aastasel Sorbillol pitsatootja ja telenägu Vesuviusest suurem maine. Kuigi turistid ja kohalikud kannatavad tema asukohtades Napolis ja Milaanos tundide kaupa, tundub New Yorgi kümnendi vana hullus Napoli trendi suhtes jahtunud-see annab võimaluse uutele kinnisideedele, nagu ruudukujuline sügavroog Detroiti stiil, mis on tohutult tabanud selliseid liigeseid nagu Emmy Squared, samuti vanaema viilu taaselustamine.

Gino Sorbillo on valmis New Yorki vastu võtma. Liz Clayman

Enne novembrikuist sündmust ennustasid pitsahuvilised, et Sorbillo võib puuküttega tulekahjusid taaskord ahhetada, et saada pundunud pirukaid, millele on lisatud San Marzano tomatid ja värske mozzarella. Kuid tema esimene NYC ettevõtmine, aprillis Väikeses Itaalias avatud praetud kalsooni ja pitsa söögikoht Zia Esterina, on juba lukku läinud. (Sorbillo publitsist Shari Bayer ütles, et sulgemise põhjustas kõrvalhoone kahjustus ja see on ajutine.)

Uuel Bowery kohapeal on oma probleemid. Sorbillo sõber ja kaaslane pizzaiolo Giulio Adriani on juhtinud mitmeid selle koha restorane: Forcella, A Slice of Napoli ja pitsa-speakeasy, SRO. Adriani sõnul sulges ta 2016. aasta alguses pärast ebaühtlast äri ja suurt üüritõusu. (Williamsburg Forcella on endiselt avatud.)

"See on karm valdkond, kuid suurim probleem on [alkoholivaba litsentsi puudumine]," ütleb Adriani, kes aitas kaasa Neapolitan Expressi pitsaautode turuletoomisel ja esitleb uut kiiret juhuslikku ettevõtmist Local Pizzaiolo. Jaanuaril Atlantas.

Kui ta 2010. aastal NYC -sse saabus, Olio e Piú avamiseks, ütleb Adriani, et võite ühelt poolt nimetada kõik linna autentsed Napoli pizzeriad: Kesté ja Motorino, millele järgnes peagi Paulie Gee. Nüüd kurdab ta: "neid on liiga palju nimetamiseks."

"Kui ma [Kesté] 10 aastat tagasi avasin, oli lihtne head tööd teha," ütleb Roberto Caporuscio, kes laiendas hiljuti oma algset pitsabaari Williamsburgis ja finantspiirkonnas, kus ta on ehitanud ka pitsakooli. „See on [isegi] palju muutunud võrreldes viie aasta taguse ajaga, kui ma Don Antonio avasin. Täna peate olema väga täpne ja ettevaatlik. ”

Pole kahtlust, et Sorbillol on koduriigis ikoonistaatus.

"Tema pere on 100 % pitsa - tõeline suguvõsa, mitu põlvkonda," ütleb Scott Wiener Scott's Pizza Toursist.

"Pizza on minu elu - minu igapäevane toit, minu elukutse ja minu ajalugu," ütleb Sorbillo (tõlkija kaudu), keda õpetasid pitsat tegema tädi Zia Esterina ja tema isa Salvatore, kes on 19. lapsed - kõik pizzaiolid. "Kui olin laps, said mu sõbrad reisida ja ma tegin ainult pitsat ja läksin kooli."

Kuid selline ajalugu ei hoia New Yorgi elanike jaoks palju varusid.

„New York City ei ole lihtne turg,” ütleb Ribalta tegevkokk Pasquale Cozzolino, kes kolis 2011. aastal Napolist New Yorki. „Michelini tärniga kokkasid on palju, kuid New Yorgi elanikke ei huvita, kas olete kuulus kusagil mujal maailmas. Nad tahavad sind siin näha, töötades kõvasti. Nad tahavad näha, et sa tõestad, et oled nende jaoks õige. ”

Kuigi Sorbillo plaanib sageli New Yorgis viibida, saab tema kodubaasiks Napoli, kus ta on juba võitnud tiheda pitsakonkurentsi. Ta astus maffia vastu, keeldudes nende toiduaineid ostmast, ja taastus kiiresti pärast 2012. aasta süütamisrünnakut, mida kahtlustatakse maffias.

Sorbillo asemel Bowery ahju ääres on kolm tema usaldusväärset pitsa valmistajat, kes kõik on töötanud vähemalt kolm aastat tema Napoli kauplustes. Tema menüü on otsustavalt itaaliapärane, alates klassikalisest Margheritast kuni Nduja pirukani, mis on valmistatud vürtsikast Calabria määritavast salaamist. Ja ta kasutab sama orgaanilist jahu ja 20-tunnist taigna käärimist nagu kõikides oma asukohtades. Kuid see detail kvaliteediga ei pruugi Ameerika maitsemeeltele meeldida.

Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana andmetel on enim tellitud Napoli pirukas Margherita (millele on lisatud San Marzano tomatikaste, värske mozzarella ja värske basiilik) - range retsept, mis kuulub Euroopa Liidu garanteeritud traditsioonilise eriala alla. Tundmatute Ameerika maitsete puhul peab Adriani ütlema, et Sorbillo peab tegelema klientidega, kes kurdavad, et pitsa on märg.

"Meil kõigil [New Yorgi Napoli tegijatel] on olnud sama probleem ja me otsustasime, kuidas sellega toime tulla," ütleb Adriani tekstuurilise erinevuse kohta. Näiteks kohandas ta oma retsepti, et kasutada vähem kastet ja koostisosi, mis eraldavad vähem vett, näiteks eelnevalt röstitud seened ja värske mozzarella, mis on üleöö nõrutatud.

Sorbillo ütleb, et ta ei plaani ühtegi oma retsepti muuta - tema pirukad on tema pirukad.

Tema pitsa on suurem kui tüüpilised Napoli pirukad, mida linnas seni nähtud, väiksema koorikuga - stiilis nimega “ruota di carretto” ehk vaguniratas. "Meie eesmärk on tasakaal piiri ümber, kus koostisosad on hästi jaotatud," ütleb Sorbillo. "Muidu, kui seda kokku voltida, on see liiga [tülikas] ja raske süüa."

Paul Giannone, rohkem tuntud kui mees Greenpointi Paulie Gee taga, mis pakub Napoli inspireeritud pirukaid, on Sorbillo võimaluste suhtes optimistlik.

"See pole lihtsalt keegi, kes avab Napoli pitsabaari-see on Napoli auväärseim Napoli pitsatootja ja mul on suur au teda omada," ütleb Giannone, kes on oma esimese viiluliigendi avamise äärel oma originaalsete tervete pirukate lähedal. -ainult asukoht.

Ükskõik, mis Manhattanil juhtub, Sorbillo ei karda.

"Olen väga kangekaelne," ütleb ta, "ja liigun edasi oma fookusega, milleks on pitsa: traditsioon, innovatsioon ja koha pärand."


Kas see Itaalia pitsameister saab seda NYC -s lõigata?

Novembri lõpus toimuval kiirel ööl kogunesid pitsatootjad üle kogu riigi, toidumeedia liikmed ja isegi linnapea de Blasio Bowery uude pitsabaari, valmistudes maitsma ülevat. Tuntud Itaalia pizzaiolo Gino Sorbillo, vahest kõige kuulsam pirukatootja Napolis-pitsa sünnikoht-tähistas oma kauaoodatud samanimelise restorani avamist. Kui piduliste seas möödus auravate kuumade pirukate rongkäik, kõlasid tavapärased ajakirjandussõbralikud kiidusõnad ja#8230, aga ka vaikne kriitika rumbeldades „supiste” lisandite ja „nätske”, „märja” taigna kohta.

Kas valitsev Napoli pitsa kuningas saab Suure õunaga hakkama? Praegu on segased arvustused vaid üks tema väljakutsetest.

Itaalias on 43-aastasel Sorbillol pitsatootja ja telenägu Vesuviusest suurem maine. Kuigi turistid ja kohalikud kannatavad tema asukohtades Napolis ja Milanos tundide kaupa, tundub New Yorgi aastakümnete pikkune Napoli trendi hullus jahtunud-see annab võimaluse uutele kinnisideedele, nagu ruudukujuline sügavroog Detroiti stiil, mis on tohutult tabanud selliseid liigeseid nagu Emmy Squared, samuti vanaema viilu taaselustamine.

Gino Sorbillo on valmis New Yorki vastu võtma. Liz Clayman

Enne novembrikuist sündmust ennustasid pitsahuvilised, et Sorbillo võib puuküttega tulekahjusid taaskord ahhetada, et saada pundunud pirukaid, millele on lisatud San Marzano tomatid ja värske mozzarella. Kuid tema esimene NYC ettevõtmine, aprillis Väikeses Itaalias avatud praetud kalsooni ja pitsa söögikoht Zia Esterina, on juba aknata. (Sorbillo publitsist Shari Bayer ütles, et sulgemise põhjustas kõrvalhoone kahjustus ja see on ajutine.)

Uuel Bowery kohapeal on oma probleemid. Sorbillo sõber ja kaaslane pizzaiolo Giulio Adriani on juhtinud mitmeid selle koha restorane: Forcella, A Slice of Napoli ja pitsa-speakeasy, SRO. Adriani sõnul sulges ta 2016. aasta alguses pärast ebaühtlast äri ja suurt üüritõusu. (Williamsburg Forcella on endiselt avatud.)

"See on karm valdkond, kuid suurim probleem on [alkoholivaba litsentsi puudumine]," ütleb Adriani, kes aitas kaasa Neapolitan Expressi pitsaautode turuletoomisel ja esitleb uut kiiret juhuslikku ettevõtmist Local Pizzaiolo. Jaanuaril Atlantas.

Kui ta 2010. aastal NYC -sse saabus, Olio e Piú avamiseks, ütleb Adriani, et võite ühelt poolt nimetada kõik linna autentsed Napoli pizzeriad: Kesté ja Motorino, millele järgnes peagi Paulie Gee oma. Nüüd kurdab ta: "neid on liiga palju nimetamiseks."

"Kui ma [Kesté] 10 aastat tagasi avasin, oli lihtne head tööd teha," ütleb Roberto Caporuscio, kes laiendas hiljuti oma algset pitsabaari Williamsburgis ja finantspiirkonnas, kus ta on ehitanud ka pitsakooli. „See on [isegi] palju muutunud võrreldes viie aasta taguse ajaga, kui ma Don Antonio avasin. Täna peate olema väga täpne ja ettevaatlik. ”

Pole kahtlust, et Sorbillol on koduriigis ikoonistaatus.

"Tema pere on 100 % pitsa - tõeline suguvõsa, mitu põlvkonda," ütleb Scott Wiener Scott's Pizza Toursist.

"Pizza on minu elu - minu igapäevane toit, minu elukutse ja minu ajalugu," ütleb Sorbillo (tõlkija kaudu), keda õpetasid pitsat tegema tädi Zia Esterina ja tema isa Salvatore, kes on 19. lapsed - kõik pizzaiolid. "Kui olin laps, said mu sõbrad reisida ja ma tegin ainult pitsat ja läksin kooli."

Kuid selline ajalugu ei hoia New Yorgi elanike jaoks palju varusid.

„New York City ei ole lihtne turg,” ütleb Ribalta tegevkokk Pasquale Cozzolino, kes kolis 2011. aastal Napolist New Yorki. „Michelini tärniga kokkasid on palju, kuid New Yorgi elanikke ei huvita, kas olete kuulus kusagil mujal maailmas. Nad tahavad sind siin näha, töötades kõvasti. Nad tahavad näha, et sa tõestad, et oled nende jaoks õige. ”

Kuigi Sorbillo kavatseb sageli New Yorgis viibida, saab tema kodubaasiks Napoli, kus ta on juba võitnud tiheda pitsavõistluse. Ta astus maffia vastu, keeldudes nende toiduaineid ostmast, ja taastus kiiresti pärast 2012. aasta süütamisrünnakut, mida kahtlustatakse maffias.

Sorbillo asemel Bowery ahju ääres on kolm tema usaldusväärset pitsa valmistajat, kes kõik on töötanud vähemalt kolm aastat tema Napoli kauplustes. Tema menüü on otsustavalt itaaliapärane, alates klassikalisest Margheritast kuni Nduja pirukani, mis on valmistatud vürtsikast Calabria määritavast salaamist. Ja ta kasutab sama orgaanilist jahu ja 20-tunnist taigna käärimist nagu kõikides oma asukohtades. Kuid see detail kvaliteediga ei pruugi Ameerika maitsemeeltele meeldida.

Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana andmetel on enim tellitud Napoli pirukas Margherita (millele on lisatud San Marzano tomatikaste, värske mozzarella ja värske basiilik) - range retsept, mis kuulub Euroopa Liidu garanteeritud traditsioonilise eriala alla. Tundmatute Ameerika maitsete puhul peab Adriani ütlema, et Sorbillo peab tegelema klientidega, kes kurdavad, et pitsa on märg.

"Meil [New Yorgi Napoli tegijatel] on kõigil olnud sama probleem ja#8230 ning me igaüks otsustasime, kuidas sellega toime tulla," ütleb Adriani tekstuurilise erinevuse kohta. Näiteks kohandas ta oma retsepti, et kasutada vähem kastet ja koostisosi, mis eraldavad vähem vett, näiteks eelnevalt röstitud seened ja värske mozzarella, mis on üleöö nõrutatud.

Sorbillo ütleb, et ta ei plaani ühtegi oma retsepti muuta - tema pirukad on tema pirukad.

Tema pitsa on suurem kui tüüpilised Napoli pirukad, mida linnas seni nähtud, väiksema koorikuga - stiilis nimega “ruota di carretto” ehk vaguniratas. "Meie eesmärk on tasakaal piiri ümber, kus koostisosad on hästi jaotatud," ütleb Sorbillo. "Muidu, kui seda kokku voltida, on see liiga [tülikas] ja raske süüa."

Paul Giannone, rohkem tuntud kui mees Greenpointi Paulie Gee taga, mis pakub Napoli inspireeritud pirukaid, on Sorbillo võimaluste suhtes optimistlik.

"See pole lihtsalt keegi, kes avab Napoli pitsabaari-see on Napoli auväärseim Napoli pitsatootja ja mul on suur au teda omada," ütleb Giannone, kes on oma esimese viiluliigendi avamise äärel oma originaalsete tervete pirukate lähedal. -ainult asukoht.

Ükskõik, mis Manhattanil juhtub, Sorbillo ei karda.

"Ma olen väga kangekaelne," ütleb ta, "ja liigun edasi oma keskendumisega, milleks on pitsa: traditsioon, innovatsioon ja koha pärand."


Kas see Itaalia pitsameister saab seda NYC -s lõigata?

Novembri lõpus toimuval kiirel ööl kogunesid pitsatootjad üle kogu riigi, toidumeedia liikmed ja isegi linnapea de Blasio Bowery uude pitsabaari, valmistudes maitsma ülevat. Tuntud Itaalia pizzaiolo Gino Sorbillo, vahest kõige kuulsam pirukatootja Napolis-pitsa sünnikoht-tähistas oma kauaoodatud samanimelise restorani avamist. Kui piduliste seas möödus auravate kuumade pirukate rongkäik, kõlasid tavapärased ajakirjandussõbralikud kiidusõnad ja#8230, aga ka vaikne kriitika, mis kostis „supiste” lisandite ja „nätske”, „märja” taigna kohta.

Kas valitsev Napoli pitsa kuningas saab Suure õunaga hakkama? Praegu on segased arvustused vaid üks tema väljakutsetest.

Itaalias on 43-aastasel Sorbillol pitsatootja ja telenägu Vesuviusest suurem maine. Kuigi turistid ja kohalikud kannatavad tema asukohtades Napolis ja Milanos tundide kaupa, tundub New Yorgi aastakümnete pikkune Napoli trendi hullus jahtunud-see annab võimaluse uutele kinnisideedele, nagu ruudukujuline sügavroog Detroiti stiil, mis on tohutult tabanud selliseid liigeseid nagu Emmy Squared, samuti vanaema viilu taaselustamine.

Gino Sorbillo on valmis New Yorki vastu võtma. Liz Clayman

Enne novembrikuist sündmust ennustasid pitsahuvilised, et Sorbillo võib puuküttega tulekahjusid taaskord ahhetada, et saada pundunud pirukaid, millele on lisatud San Marzano tomatid ja värske mozzarella. Kuid tema esimene NYC ettevõtmine, aprillis Väikeses Itaalias avatud praetud kalsooni ja pitsa söögikoht Zia Esterina, on juba lukku läinud. (Sorbillo publitsist Shari Bayer ütles, et sulgemise põhjustas kõrvalhoone kahjustus ja see on ajutine.)

Uuel Bowery kohapeal on oma probleemid. Sorbillo sõber ja kaaslane pizzaiolo Giulio Adriani on juhtinud mitmeid selle koha restorane: Forcella, A Slice of Napoli ja pitsa-speakeasy, SRO. Adriani sõnul sulges ta 2016. aasta alguses pärast ebaühtlast äri ja suurt üüritõusu. (Williamsburg Forcella on endiselt avatud.)

"See on karm valdkond, kuid suurim probleem on [alkoholivaba litsentsi puudumine]," ütleb Adriani, kes aitas kaasa Neapolitan Expressi pitsaautode turuletoomisel ja esitleb uut kiiret juhuslikku ettevõtmist Local Pizzaiolo. Jaanuaril Atlantas.

Kui ta 2010. aastal NYC -sse saabus, Olio e Piú avamiseks, ütleb Adriani, et võite ühelt poolt nimetada kõik linna autentsed Napoli pizzeriad: Kesté ja Motorino, millele järgnes peagi Paulie Gee. Nüüd kurdab ta: "neid on liiga palju nimetamiseks."

"Kui ma [Kesté] 10 aastat tagasi avasin, oli lihtne head tööd teha," ütleb Roberto Caporuscio, kes laiendas hiljuti oma algset pitsabaari Williamsburgis ja finantspiirkonnas, kus ta on ehitanud ka pitsakooli. „See on [isegi] palju muutunud võrreldes viie aasta taguse ajaga, kui ma Don Antonio avasin. Täna peate olema väga täpne ja ettevaatlik. ”

Pole kahtlust, et Sorbillol on koduriigis ikoonistaatus.

"Tema pere on 100 % pitsa - tõeline suguvõsa, mitu põlvkonda," ütleb Scott Wiener Scott's Pizza Toursist.

"Pizza on minu elu - minu igapäevane toit, minu elukutse ja minu ajalugu," ütleb Sorbillo (tõlkija kaudu), keda õpetasid pitsat tegema tädi Zia Esterina ja tema isa Salvatore, kes on 19. lapsed - kõik pizzaiolid. "Kui olin laps, said mu sõbrad reisida ja ma tegin ainult pitsat ja läksin kooli."

Kuid selline ajalugu ei hoia New Yorgi elanike jaoks palju varusid.

„New York City ei ole lihtne turg,” ütleb Ribalta tegevkokk Pasquale Cozzolino, kes kolis 2011. aastal Napolist New Yorki. „Michelini tärniga kokkasid on palju, kuid New Yorklased ei hooli sellest, kas olete kuulus kusagil mujal maailmas. Nad tahavad sind siin näha, töötades kõvasti. Nad tahavad näha, et sa tõestad, et oled nende jaoks õige. ”

Kuigi Sorbillo plaanib sageli New Yorgis viibida, saab tema kodubaasiks Napoli, kus ta on juba võitnud tiheda pitsakonkurentsi. Ta astus maffia vastu, keeldudes nende toiduaineid ostmast, ja taastus kiiresti pärast 2012. aasta süütamisrünnakut, mida kahtlustatakse maffias.

Sorbillo asemel Bowery ahju ääres on kolm tema usaldusväärset pitsa valmistajat, kes kõik on töötanud vähemalt kolm aastat tema Napoli kauplustes. Tema menüü on otsustavalt itaaliapärane, alates klassikalisest Margheritast kuni Nduja pirukani, mis on valmistatud vürtsikast Calabria määritavast salaamist. Ja ta kasutab sama orgaanilist jahu ja 20-tunnist taigna käärimist nagu kõikides oma asukohtades. Kuid see detail kvaliteediga ei pruugi Ameerika maitsemeeltele meeldida.

Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana andmetel on enim tellitud Napoli pirukas Margherita (millele on lisatud San Marzano tomatikaste, värske mozzarella ja värske basiilik) - range retsept, mis kuulub Euroopa Liidu garanteeritud traditsioonilise eriala alla. Tundmatute Ameerika maitsete puhul peab Adriani ütlema, et Sorbillo peab tegelema klientidega, kes kurdavad, et pitsa on märg.

"Meil [New Yorgi Napoli tegijatel] on kõigil olnud sama probleem ja#8230 ning me igaüks otsustasime, kuidas sellega toime tulla," ütleb Adriani tekstuurilise erinevuse kohta. Näiteks kohandas ta oma retsepti, et kasutada vähem kastet ja koostisosi, mis eraldavad vähem vett, näiteks eelnevalt röstitud seened ja värske mozzarella, mis on üleöö nõrutatud.

Sorbillo ütleb, et ta ei plaani ühtegi oma retsepti muuta - tema pirukad on tema pirukad.

Tema pitsa on suurem kui tüüpilised Napoli pirukad, mida linnas seni nähtud, väiksema koorikuga - stiilis nimega “ruota di carretto” ehk vaguniratas. "Meie eesmärk on tasakaal piiri ümber, kus koostisosad on hästi jaotatud," ütleb Sorbillo. "Muidu, kui seda kokku voltida, on see liiga [tülikas] ja raske süüa."

Paul Giannone, rohkem tuntud kui mees Greenpointi Paulie Gee taga, mis pakub Napoli inspireeritud pirukaid, on Sorbillo võimaluste suhtes optimistlik.

"See pole lihtsalt keegi, kes avab Napoli pitsabaari-see on Napoli auväärseim Napoli pitsatootja ja mul on suur au teda omada," ütleb Giannone, kes on oma esimese viiluliigendi avamise äärel oma originaalsete tervete pirukate lähedal. -ainult asukoht.

Ükskõik, mis Manhattanil juhtub, Sorbillo ei karda.

"Olen väga kangekaelne," ütleb ta, "ja liigun edasi oma fookusega, milleks on pitsa: traditsioon, innovatsioon ja koha pärand."


Kas see Itaalia pitsameister saab seda NYC -s lõigata?

Novembri lõpus toimuval kiirel ööl kogunesid pitsatootjad üle kogu riigi, toidumeedia liikmed ja isegi linnapea de Blasio Bowery uude pitsabaari, valmistudes maitsma ülevat. Tuntud Itaalia pizzaiolo Gino Sorbillo, vahest kõige kuulsam pirukatootja Napolis-pitsa sünnikoht-tähistas oma kauaoodatud samanimelise restorani avamist. As a procession of steaming hot pies passed among the partiers, there were the usual press-friendly praises … but also a quiet rumbling of criticism about “soupy” toppings and “chewy,” “wet” dough.

Can the reigning king of Neapolitan pizza make it in the Big Apple? Right now, mixed reviews are just one of his challenges.

In Italy, the 43-year-old Sorbillo has a larger-than-Vesuvius reputation as a pizza maker and TV personality. While tourists and locals alike endure hour-plus lines at his locations in Naples and Milan, it seems New York City’s decade-old craze for the Neapolitan trend has cooled off — making way for new obsessions such as the square-shaped, deep-dish Detroit style that’s been a huge hit at joints like Emmy Squared, as well as a revitalization of the grandma slice.

Gino Sorbillo is ready to take on New York. Liz Clayman

Before the November event, pizza aficionados had been predicting Sorbillo could stoke the wood-burning fires once again for puffy-crusted pies topped with San Marzano tomatoes and fresh mozzarella. But his first NYC venture, the fried-calzone-and-pizza eatery Zia Esterina, which opened in Little Italy in April, has already shuttered. (Sorbillo’s publicist Shari Bayer said the closure was caused by damage from next-door construction and is temporary.)

The new Bowery spot comes with its own issues. Sorbillo’s friend and fellow pizzaiolo Giulio Adriani has helmed a number of restaurants at the location: Forcella, A Slice of Naples and the pizza-speakeasy, SRO. Adriani says he closed in early 2016 after uneven business and a large rent increase. (The Williamsburg Forcella is still open.)

“It’s a tough area, but the biggest problem is the [lack of a] liquor license,” says Adriani, who went on to help launch the Neapolitan Express pizza trucks and is debuting a new fast-casual venture, the Local Pizzaiolo, in Atlanta in January.

Back when he arrived in NYC in 2010, to open Olio e Piú, Adriani says you could name all the city’s authentic Neapolitan pizzerias on one hand: Kesté and Motorino, which were soon followed by Paulie Gee’s. Now, he laments, “there are too many to name.”

“When I opened [Kesté] 10 years ago, it was easy to do a good job,” says Roberto Caporuscio, who recently expanded his original pizzeria to locations in Williamsburg and the Financial District, where he has also built a pizza school. “It’s [even] changed a lot from five years ago when I opened Don Antonio. Today, you need to be very precise and careful.”

There is no doubt that Sorbillo has icon status in his home country.

“His family is 100 percent pizza — real lineage there, multiple generations,” says Scott Wiener of Scott’s Pizza Tours.

“Pizza is my life — my daily food, my profession and my history,” says Sorbillo (via a translator), who was taught to make pizzas by his aunt, Zia Esterina, and his father, Salvatore, who is the 19th of 21 children — all pizzaioli. “When I was a child, my friends were able to travel, and all I did was make pizza and go to school.”

But that kind of history doesn’t hold much stock with New Yorkers.

“New York City is not an easy market,” says Ribalta executive chef Pasquale Cozzolino, who moved to New York from Naples in 2011. “There’s a lot of Michelin-star chefs, but New Yorkers don’t care if you’re famous somewhere else in the world. They want to see you here, working hard. They want to see you prove you are right for them.”

Although Sorbillo plans to be in New York frequently, his home base will be Naples, where he has already conquered intense pizza competition. He stood up to the Mafia by refusing to purchase their food products and quickly rebounded from a 2012 arson attack suspected to be the Mafia’s doing.

In Sorbillo’s place by the oven on Bowery are three of his trusted pizza makers, all whom have worked a minimum of three years at his shops in Naples. His menu is decidedly Italian, from the classic Margherita to the Nduja pie made with spicy Calabrian spreadable salami. And he uses the same organic flour and 20-hour dough fermentation as he does in all his locations. But that detail to quality might not please American taste buds.

According to the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana, the most widely ordered Neapolitan pie is the Margherita (topped with San Marzano tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella and fresh basil) — a strict recipe that falls under the European Union’s “Traditional Speciality Guaranteed” status. For unfamiliar American palates, Adriani says Sorbillo will have to deal with customers who complain that the pizza is soggy.

“We [Neapolitan makers in New York] all have had the same problem … and we each decided how to handle it,” says Adriani of the textural difference. For instance, he adjusted his recipe to use less sauce and ingredients that release less water, such as pre-roasted mushrooms and fresh mozzarella that’s been drained overnight.

Sorbillo says he does not plan to change any of his recipes — his pies are his pies.

His pizza is larger than typical Neapolitan pies seen in the city thus far, with a smaller crust — a style called “ruota di carretto” or wagon wheel. “Our goal is equilibrium around the border with ingredients well-distributed,” Sorbillo says. “Otherwise when you fold it, it’s too [cumbersome] and hard to eat.”

Paul Giannone, better known as the man behind Greenpoint’s Paulie Gee’s, which serves Neapolitan-inspired pies, is optimistic about Sorbillo’s chances.

“It’s not just somebody opening a Neapolitan pizzeria — it’s the most respected Neapolitan pizza maker in Naples, and it’s a great honor to have him,” says Giannone, who is on the brink of opening his first slice joint near his original whole-pies-only location.

No matter what happens in Manhattan, Sorbillo is not afraid.

“I am very stubborn,” he says, “and moving forward with my focus, which is the pizza: tradition, innovation and heritage of place.”


Can this Italian pizza master cut it in NYC?

On a brisk night in late November, top pizza makers from around the country, members of the food media and even Mayor de Blasio gathered at a new pizzeria on the Bowery, preparing to taste the sublime. The renowned Italian pizzaiolo Gino Sorbillo, perhaps the most famous pie maker in Naples — the birthplace of pizza — was celebrating the opening of his long-awaited, eponymous restaurant. As a procession of steaming hot pies passed among the partiers, there were the usual press-friendly praises … but also a quiet rumbling of criticism about “soupy” toppings and “chewy,” “wet” dough.

Can the reigning king of Neapolitan pizza make it in the Big Apple? Right now, mixed reviews are just one of his challenges.

In Italy, the 43-year-old Sorbillo has a larger-than-Vesuvius reputation as a pizza maker and TV personality. While tourists and locals alike endure hour-plus lines at his locations in Naples and Milan, it seems New York City’s decade-old craze for the Neapolitan trend has cooled off — making way for new obsessions such as the square-shaped, deep-dish Detroit style that’s been a huge hit at joints like Emmy Squared, as well as a revitalization of the grandma slice.

Gino Sorbillo is ready to take on New York. Liz Clayman

Before the November event, pizza aficionados had been predicting Sorbillo could stoke the wood-burning fires once again for puffy-crusted pies topped with San Marzano tomatoes and fresh mozzarella. But his first NYC venture, the fried-calzone-and-pizza eatery Zia Esterina, which opened in Little Italy in April, has already shuttered. (Sorbillo’s publicist Shari Bayer said the closure was caused by damage from next-door construction and is temporary.)

The new Bowery spot comes with its own issues. Sorbillo’s friend and fellow pizzaiolo Giulio Adriani has helmed a number of restaurants at the location: Forcella, A Slice of Naples and the pizza-speakeasy, SRO. Adriani says he closed in early 2016 after uneven business and a large rent increase. (The Williamsburg Forcella is still open.)

“It’s a tough area, but the biggest problem is the [lack of a] liquor license,” says Adriani, who went on to help launch the Neapolitan Express pizza trucks and is debuting a new fast-casual venture, the Local Pizzaiolo, in Atlanta in January.

Back when he arrived in NYC in 2010, to open Olio e Piú, Adriani says you could name all the city’s authentic Neapolitan pizzerias on one hand: Kesté and Motorino, which were soon followed by Paulie Gee’s. Now, he laments, “there are too many to name.”

“When I opened [Kesté] 10 years ago, it was easy to do a good job,” says Roberto Caporuscio, who recently expanded his original pizzeria to locations in Williamsburg and the Financial District, where he has also built a pizza school. “It’s [even] changed a lot from five years ago when I opened Don Antonio. Today, you need to be very precise and careful.”

There is no doubt that Sorbillo has icon status in his home country.

“His family is 100 percent pizza — real lineage there, multiple generations,” says Scott Wiener of Scott’s Pizza Tours.

“Pizza is my life — my daily food, my profession and my history,” says Sorbillo (via a translator), who was taught to make pizzas by his aunt, Zia Esterina, and his father, Salvatore, who is the 19th of 21 children — all pizzaioli. “When I was a child, my friends were able to travel, and all I did was make pizza and go to school.”

But that kind of history doesn’t hold much stock with New Yorkers.

“New York City is not an easy market,” says Ribalta executive chef Pasquale Cozzolino, who moved to New York from Naples in 2011. “There’s a lot of Michelin-star chefs, but New Yorkers don’t care if you’re famous somewhere else in the world. They want to see you here, working hard. They want to see you prove you are right for them.”

Although Sorbillo plans to be in New York frequently, his home base will be Naples, where he has already conquered intense pizza competition. He stood up to the Mafia by refusing to purchase their food products and quickly rebounded from a 2012 arson attack suspected to be the Mafia’s doing.

In Sorbillo’s place by the oven on Bowery are three of his trusted pizza makers, all whom have worked a minimum of three years at his shops in Naples. His menu is decidedly Italian, from the classic Margherita to the Nduja pie made with spicy Calabrian spreadable salami. And he uses the same organic flour and 20-hour dough fermentation as he does in all his locations. But that detail to quality might not please American taste buds.

According to the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana, the most widely ordered Neapolitan pie is the Margherita (topped with San Marzano tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella and fresh basil) — a strict recipe that falls under the European Union’s “Traditional Speciality Guaranteed” status. For unfamiliar American palates, Adriani says Sorbillo will have to deal with customers who complain that the pizza is soggy.

“We [Neapolitan makers in New York] all have had the same problem … and we each decided how to handle it,” says Adriani of the textural difference. For instance, he adjusted his recipe to use less sauce and ingredients that release less water, such as pre-roasted mushrooms and fresh mozzarella that’s been drained overnight.

Sorbillo says he does not plan to change any of his recipes — his pies are his pies.

His pizza is larger than typical Neapolitan pies seen in the city thus far, with a smaller crust — a style called “ruota di carretto” or wagon wheel. “Our goal is equilibrium around the border with ingredients well-distributed,” Sorbillo says. “Otherwise when you fold it, it’s too [cumbersome] and hard to eat.”

Paul Giannone, better known as the man behind Greenpoint’s Paulie Gee’s, which serves Neapolitan-inspired pies, is optimistic about Sorbillo’s chances.

“It’s not just somebody opening a Neapolitan pizzeria — it’s the most respected Neapolitan pizza maker in Naples, and it’s a great honor to have him,” says Giannone, who is on the brink of opening his first slice joint near his original whole-pies-only location.

No matter what happens in Manhattan, Sorbillo is not afraid.

“I am very stubborn,” he says, “and moving forward with my focus, which is the pizza: tradition, innovation and heritage of place.”


Can this Italian pizza master cut it in NYC?

On a brisk night in late November, top pizza makers from around the country, members of the food media and even Mayor de Blasio gathered at a new pizzeria on the Bowery, preparing to taste the sublime. The renowned Italian pizzaiolo Gino Sorbillo, perhaps the most famous pie maker in Naples — the birthplace of pizza — was celebrating the opening of his long-awaited, eponymous restaurant. As a procession of steaming hot pies passed among the partiers, there were the usual press-friendly praises … but also a quiet rumbling of criticism about “soupy” toppings and “chewy,” “wet” dough.

Can the reigning king of Neapolitan pizza make it in the Big Apple? Right now, mixed reviews are just one of his challenges.

In Italy, the 43-year-old Sorbillo has a larger-than-Vesuvius reputation as a pizza maker and TV personality. While tourists and locals alike endure hour-plus lines at his locations in Naples and Milan, it seems New York City’s decade-old craze for the Neapolitan trend has cooled off — making way for new obsessions such as the square-shaped, deep-dish Detroit style that’s been a huge hit at joints like Emmy Squared, as well as a revitalization of the grandma slice.

Gino Sorbillo is ready to take on New York. Liz Clayman

Before the November event, pizza aficionados had been predicting Sorbillo could stoke the wood-burning fires once again for puffy-crusted pies topped with San Marzano tomatoes and fresh mozzarella. But his first NYC venture, the fried-calzone-and-pizza eatery Zia Esterina, which opened in Little Italy in April, has already shuttered. (Sorbillo’s publicist Shari Bayer said the closure was caused by damage from next-door construction and is temporary.)

The new Bowery spot comes with its own issues. Sorbillo’s friend and fellow pizzaiolo Giulio Adriani has helmed a number of restaurants at the location: Forcella, A Slice of Naples and the pizza-speakeasy, SRO. Adriani says he closed in early 2016 after uneven business and a large rent increase. (The Williamsburg Forcella is still open.)

“It’s a tough area, but the biggest problem is the [lack of a] liquor license,” says Adriani, who went on to help launch the Neapolitan Express pizza trucks and is debuting a new fast-casual venture, the Local Pizzaiolo, in Atlanta in January.

Back when he arrived in NYC in 2010, to open Olio e Piú, Adriani says you could name all the city’s authentic Neapolitan pizzerias on one hand: Kesté and Motorino, which were soon followed by Paulie Gee’s. Now, he laments, “there are too many to name.”

“When I opened [Kesté] 10 years ago, it was easy to do a good job,” says Roberto Caporuscio, who recently expanded his original pizzeria to locations in Williamsburg and the Financial District, where he has also built a pizza school. “It’s [even] changed a lot from five years ago when I opened Don Antonio. Today, you need to be very precise and careful.”

There is no doubt that Sorbillo has icon status in his home country.

“His family is 100 percent pizza — real lineage there, multiple generations,” says Scott Wiener of Scott’s Pizza Tours.

“Pizza is my life — my daily food, my profession and my history,” says Sorbillo (via a translator), who was taught to make pizzas by his aunt, Zia Esterina, and his father, Salvatore, who is the 19th of 21 children — all pizzaioli. “When I was a child, my friends were able to travel, and all I did was make pizza and go to school.”

But that kind of history doesn’t hold much stock with New Yorkers.

“New York City is not an easy market,” says Ribalta executive chef Pasquale Cozzolino, who moved to New York from Naples in 2011. “There’s a lot of Michelin-star chefs, but New Yorkers don’t care if you’re famous somewhere else in the world. They want to see you here, working hard. They want to see you prove you are right for them.”

Although Sorbillo plans to be in New York frequently, his home base will be Naples, where he has already conquered intense pizza competition. He stood up to the Mafia by refusing to purchase their food products and quickly rebounded from a 2012 arson attack suspected to be the Mafia’s doing.

In Sorbillo’s place by the oven on Bowery are three of his trusted pizza makers, all whom have worked a minimum of three years at his shops in Naples. His menu is decidedly Italian, from the classic Margherita to the Nduja pie made with spicy Calabrian spreadable salami. And he uses the same organic flour and 20-hour dough fermentation as he does in all his locations. But that detail to quality might not please American taste buds.

According to the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana, the most widely ordered Neapolitan pie is the Margherita (topped with San Marzano tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella and fresh basil) — a strict recipe that falls under the European Union’s “Traditional Speciality Guaranteed” status. For unfamiliar American palates, Adriani says Sorbillo will have to deal with customers who complain that the pizza is soggy.

“We [Neapolitan makers in New York] all have had the same problem … and we each decided how to handle it,” says Adriani of the textural difference. For instance, he adjusted his recipe to use less sauce and ingredients that release less water, such as pre-roasted mushrooms and fresh mozzarella that’s been drained overnight.

Sorbillo says he does not plan to change any of his recipes — his pies are his pies.

His pizza is larger than typical Neapolitan pies seen in the city thus far, with a smaller crust — a style called “ruota di carretto” or wagon wheel. “Our goal is equilibrium around the border with ingredients well-distributed,” Sorbillo says. “Otherwise when you fold it, it’s too [cumbersome] and hard to eat.”

Paul Giannone, better known as the man behind Greenpoint’s Paulie Gee’s, which serves Neapolitan-inspired pies, is optimistic about Sorbillo’s chances.

“It’s not just somebody opening a Neapolitan pizzeria — it’s the most respected Neapolitan pizza maker in Naples, and it’s a great honor to have him,” says Giannone, who is on the brink of opening his first slice joint near his original whole-pies-only location.

No matter what happens in Manhattan, Sorbillo is not afraid.

“I am very stubborn,” he says, “and moving forward with my focus, which is the pizza: tradition, innovation and heritage of place.”


Can this Italian pizza master cut it in NYC?

On a brisk night in late November, top pizza makers from around the country, members of the food media and even Mayor de Blasio gathered at a new pizzeria on the Bowery, preparing to taste the sublime. The renowned Italian pizzaiolo Gino Sorbillo, perhaps the most famous pie maker in Naples — the birthplace of pizza — was celebrating the opening of his long-awaited, eponymous restaurant. As a procession of steaming hot pies passed among the partiers, there were the usual press-friendly praises … but also a quiet rumbling of criticism about “soupy” toppings and “chewy,” “wet” dough.

Can the reigning king of Neapolitan pizza make it in the Big Apple? Right now, mixed reviews are just one of his challenges.

In Italy, the 43-year-old Sorbillo has a larger-than-Vesuvius reputation as a pizza maker and TV personality. While tourists and locals alike endure hour-plus lines at his locations in Naples and Milan, it seems New York City’s decade-old craze for the Neapolitan trend has cooled off — making way for new obsessions such as the square-shaped, deep-dish Detroit style that’s been a huge hit at joints like Emmy Squared, as well as a revitalization of the grandma slice.

Gino Sorbillo is ready to take on New York. Liz Clayman

Before the November event, pizza aficionados had been predicting Sorbillo could stoke the wood-burning fires once again for puffy-crusted pies topped with San Marzano tomatoes and fresh mozzarella. But his first NYC venture, the fried-calzone-and-pizza eatery Zia Esterina, which opened in Little Italy in April, has already shuttered. (Sorbillo’s publicist Shari Bayer said the closure was caused by damage from next-door construction and is temporary.)

The new Bowery spot comes with its own issues. Sorbillo’s friend and fellow pizzaiolo Giulio Adriani has helmed a number of restaurants at the location: Forcella, A Slice of Naples and the pizza-speakeasy, SRO. Adriani says he closed in early 2016 after uneven business and a large rent increase. (The Williamsburg Forcella is still open.)

“It’s a tough area, but the biggest problem is the [lack of a] liquor license,” says Adriani, who went on to help launch the Neapolitan Express pizza trucks and is debuting a new fast-casual venture, the Local Pizzaiolo, in Atlanta in January.

Back when he arrived in NYC in 2010, to open Olio e Piú, Adriani says you could name all the city’s authentic Neapolitan pizzerias on one hand: Kesté and Motorino, which were soon followed by Paulie Gee’s. Now, he laments, “there are too many to name.”

“When I opened [Kesté] 10 years ago, it was easy to do a good job,” says Roberto Caporuscio, who recently expanded his original pizzeria to locations in Williamsburg and the Financial District, where he has also built a pizza school. “It’s [even] changed a lot from five years ago when I opened Don Antonio. Today, you need to be very precise and careful.”

There is no doubt that Sorbillo has icon status in his home country.

“His family is 100 percent pizza — real lineage there, multiple generations,” says Scott Wiener of Scott’s Pizza Tours.

“Pizza is my life — my daily food, my profession and my history,” says Sorbillo (via a translator), who was taught to make pizzas by his aunt, Zia Esterina, and his father, Salvatore, who is the 19th of 21 children — all pizzaioli. “When I was a child, my friends were able to travel, and all I did was make pizza and go to school.”

But that kind of history doesn’t hold much stock with New Yorkers.

“New York City is not an easy market,” says Ribalta executive chef Pasquale Cozzolino, who moved to New York from Naples in 2011. “There’s a lot of Michelin-star chefs, but New Yorkers don’t care if you’re famous somewhere else in the world. They want to see you here, working hard. They want to see you prove you are right for them.”

Although Sorbillo plans to be in New York frequently, his home base will be Naples, where he has already conquered intense pizza competition. He stood up to the Mafia by refusing to purchase their food products and quickly rebounded from a 2012 arson attack suspected to be the Mafia’s doing.

In Sorbillo’s place by the oven on Bowery are three of his trusted pizza makers, all whom have worked a minimum of three years at his shops in Naples. His menu is decidedly Italian, from the classic Margherita to the Nduja pie made with spicy Calabrian spreadable salami. And he uses the same organic flour and 20-hour dough fermentation as he does in all his locations. But that detail to quality might not please American taste buds.

According to the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana, the most widely ordered Neapolitan pie is the Margherita (topped with San Marzano tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella and fresh basil) — a strict recipe that falls under the European Union’s “Traditional Speciality Guaranteed” status. For unfamiliar American palates, Adriani says Sorbillo will have to deal with customers who complain that the pizza is soggy.

“We [Neapolitan makers in New York] all have had the same problem … and we each decided how to handle it,” says Adriani of the textural difference. For instance, he adjusted his recipe to use less sauce and ingredients that release less water, such as pre-roasted mushrooms and fresh mozzarella that’s been drained overnight.

Sorbillo says he does not plan to change any of his recipes — his pies are his pies.

His pizza is larger than typical Neapolitan pies seen in the city thus far, with a smaller crust — a style called “ruota di carretto” or wagon wheel. “Our goal is equilibrium around the border with ingredients well-distributed,” Sorbillo says. “Otherwise when you fold it, it’s too [cumbersome] and hard to eat.”

Paul Giannone, better known as the man behind Greenpoint’s Paulie Gee’s, which serves Neapolitan-inspired pies, is optimistic about Sorbillo’s chances.

“It’s not just somebody opening a Neapolitan pizzeria — it’s the most respected Neapolitan pizza maker in Naples, and it’s a great honor to have him,” says Giannone, who is on the brink of opening his first slice joint near his original whole-pies-only location.

No matter what happens in Manhattan, Sorbillo is not afraid.

“I am very stubborn,” he says, “and moving forward with my focus, which is the pizza: tradition, innovation and heritage of place.”


Can this Italian pizza master cut it in NYC?

On a brisk night in late November, top pizza makers from around the country, members of the food media and even Mayor de Blasio gathered at a new pizzeria on the Bowery, preparing to taste the sublime. The renowned Italian pizzaiolo Gino Sorbillo, perhaps the most famous pie maker in Naples — the birthplace of pizza — was celebrating the opening of his long-awaited, eponymous restaurant. As a procession of steaming hot pies passed among the partiers, there were the usual press-friendly praises … but also a quiet rumbling of criticism about “soupy” toppings and “chewy,” “wet” dough.

Can the reigning king of Neapolitan pizza make it in the Big Apple? Right now, mixed reviews are just one of his challenges.

In Italy, the 43-year-old Sorbillo has a larger-than-Vesuvius reputation as a pizza maker and TV personality. While tourists and locals alike endure hour-plus lines at his locations in Naples and Milan, it seems New York City’s decade-old craze for the Neapolitan trend has cooled off — making way for new obsessions such as the square-shaped, deep-dish Detroit style that’s been a huge hit at joints like Emmy Squared, as well as a revitalization of the grandma slice.

Gino Sorbillo is ready to take on New York. Liz Clayman

Before the November event, pizza aficionados had been predicting Sorbillo could stoke the wood-burning fires once again for puffy-crusted pies topped with San Marzano tomatoes and fresh mozzarella. But his first NYC venture, the fried-calzone-and-pizza eatery Zia Esterina, which opened in Little Italy in April, has already shuttered. (Sorbillo’s publicist Shari Bayer said the closure was caused by damage from next-door construction and is temporary.)

The new Bowery spot comes with its own issues. Sorbillo’s friend and fellow pizzaiolo Giulio Adriani has helmed a number of restaurants at the location: Forcella, A Slice of Naples and the pizza-speakeasy, SRO. Adriani says he closed in early 2016 after uneven business and a large rent increase. (The Williamsburg Forcella is still open.)

“It’s a tough area, but the biggest problem is the [lack of a] liquor license,” says Adriani, who went on to help launch the Neapolitan Express pizza trucks and is debuting a new fast-casual venture, the Local Pizzaiolo, in Atlanta in January.

Back when he arrived in NYC in 2010, to open Olio e Piú, Adriani says you could name all the city’s authentic Neapolitan pizzerias on one hand: Kesté and Motorino, which were soon followed by Paulie Gee’s. Now, he laments, “there are too many to name.”

“When I opened [Kesté] 10 years ago, it was easy to do a good job,” says Roberto Caporuscio, who recently expanded his original pizzeria to locations in Williamsburg and the Financial District, where he has also built a pizza school. “It’s [even] changed a lot from five years ago when I opened Don Antonio. Today, you need to be very precise and careful.”

There is no doubt that Sorbillo has icon status in his home country.

“His family is 100 percent pizza — real lineage there, multiple generations,” says Scott Wiener of Scott’s Pizza Tours.

“Pizza is my life — my daily food, my profession and my history,” says Sorbillo (via a translator), who was taught to make pizzas by his aunt, Zia Esterina, and his father, Salvatore, who is the 19th of 21 children — all pizzaioli. “When I was a child, my friends were able to travel, and all I did was make pizza and go to school.”

But that kind of history doesn’t hold much stock with New Yorkers.

“New York City is not an easy market,” says Ribalta executive chef Pasquale Cozzolino, who moved to New York from Naples in 2011. “There’s a lot of Michelin-star chefs, but New Yorkers don’t care if you’re famous somewhere else in the world. They want to see you here, working hard. They want to see you prove you are right for them.”

Although Sorbillo plans to be in New York frequently, his home base will be Naples, where he has already conquered intense pizza competition. He stood up to the Mafia by refusing to purchase their food products and quickly rebounded from a 2012 arson attack suspected to be the Mafia’s doing.

In Sorbillo’s place by the oven on Bowery are three of his trusted pizza makers, all whom have worked a minimum of three years at his shops in Naples. His menu is decidedly Italian, from the classic Margherita to the Nduja pie made with spicy Calabrian spreadable salami. And he uses the same organic flour and 20-hour dough fermentation as he does in all his locations. But that detail to quality might not please American taste buds.

According to the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana, the most widely ordered Neapolitan pie is the Margherita (topped with San Marzano tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella and fresh basil) — a strict recipe that falls under the European Union’s “Traditional Speciality Guaranteed” status. For unfamiliar American palates, Adriani says Sorbillo will have to deal with customers who complain that the pizza is soggy.

“We [Neapolitan makers in New York] all have had the same problem … and we each decided how to handle it,” says Adriani of the textural difference. For instance, he adjusted his recipe to use less sauce and ingredients that release less water, such as pre-roasted mushrooms and fresh mozzarella that’s been drained overnight.

Sorbillo says he does not plan to change any of his recipes — his pies are his pies.

His pizza is larger than typical Neapolitan pies seen in the city thus far, with a smaller crust — a style called “ruota di carretto” or wagon wheel. “Our goal is equilibrium around the border with ingredients well-distributed,” Sorbillo says. “Otherwise when you fold it, it’s too [cumbersome] and hard to eat.”

Paul Giannone, better known as the man behind Greenpoint’s Paulie Gee’s, which serves Neapolitan-inspired pies, is optimistic about Sorbillo’s chances.

“It’s not just somebody opening a Neapolitan pizzeria — it’s the most respected Neapolitan pizza maker in Naples, and it’s a great honor to have him,” says Giannone, who is on the brink of opening his first slice joint near his original whole-pies-only location.

No matter what happens in Manhattan, Sorbillo is not afraid.

“I am very stubborn,” he says, “and moving forward with my focus, which is the pizza: tradition, innovation and heritage of place.”


Can this Italian pizza master cut it in NYC?

On a brisk night in late November, top pizza makers from around the country, members of the food media and even Mayor de Blasio gathered at a new pizzeria on the Bowery, preparing to taste the sublime. The renowned Italian pizzaiolo Gino Sorbillo, perhaps the most famous pie maker in Naples — the birthplace of pizza — was celebrating the opening of his long-awaited, eponymous restaurant. As a procession of steaming hot pies passed among the partiers, there were the usual press-friendly praises … but also a quiet rumbling of criticism about “soupy” toppings and “chewy,” “wet” dough.

Can the reigning king of Neapolitan pizza make it in the Big Apple? Right now, mixed reviews are just one of his challenges.

In Italy, the 43-year-old Sorbillo has a larger-than-Vesuvius reputation as a pizza maker and TV personality. While tourists and locals alike endure hour-plus lines at his locations in Naples and Milan, it seems New York City’s decade-old craze for the Neapolitan trend has cooled off — making way for new obsessions such as the square-shaped, deep-dish Detroit style that’s been a huge hit at joints like Emmy Squared, as well as a revitalization of the grandma slice.

Gino Sorbillo is ready to take on New York. Liz Clayman

Before the November event, pizza aficionados had been predicting Sorbillo could stoke the wood-burning fires once again for puffy-crusted pies topped with San Marzano tomatoes and fresh mozzarella. But his first NYC venture, the fried-calzone-and-pizza eatery Zia Esterina, which opened in Little Italy in April, has already shuttered. (Sorbillo’s publicist Shari Bayer said the closure was caused by damage from next-door construction and is temporary.)

The new Bowery spot comes with its own issues. Sorbillo’s friend and fellow pizzaiolo Giulio Adriani has helmed a number of restaurants at the location: Forcella, A Slice of Naples and the pizza-speakeasy, SRO. Adriani says he closed in early 2016 after uneven business and a large rent increase. (The Williamsburg Forcella is still open.)

“It’s a tough area, but the biggest problem is the [lack of a] liquor license,” says Adriani, who went on to help launch the Neapolitan Express pizza trucks and is debuting a new fast-casual venture, the Local Pizzaiolo, in Atlanta in January.

Back when he arrived in NYC in 2010, to open Olio e Piú, Adriani says you could name all the city’s authentic Neapolitan pizzerias on one hand: Kesté and Motorino, which were soon followed by Paulie Gee’s. Now, he laments, “there are too many to name.”

“When I opened [Kesté] 10 years ago, it was easy to do a good job,” says Roberto Caporuscio, who recently expanded his original pizzeria to locations in Williamsburg and the Financial District, where he has also built a pizza school. “It’s [even] changed a lot from five years ago when I opened Don Antonio. Today, you need to be very precise and careful.”

There is no doubt that Sorbillo has icon status in his home country.

“His family is 100 percent pizza — real lineage there, multiple generations,” says Scott Wiener of Scott’s Pizza Tours.

“Pizza is my life — my daily food, my profession and my history,” says Sorbillo (via a translator), who was taught to make pizzas by his aunt, Zia Esterina, and his father, Salvatore, who is the 19th of 21 children — all pizzaioli. “When I was a child, my friends were able to travel, and all I did was make pizza and go to school.”

But that kind of history doesn’t hold much stock with New Yorkers.

“New York City is not an easy market,” says Ribalta executive chef Pasquale Cozzolino, who moved to New York from Naples in 2011. “There’s a lot of Michelin-star chefs, but New Yorkers don’t care if you’re famous somewhere else in the world. They want to see you here, working hard. They want to see you prove you are right for them.”

Although Sorbillo plans to be in New York frequently, his home base will be Naples, where he has already conquered intense pizza competition. He stood up to the Mafia by refusing to purchase their food products and quickly rebounded from a 2012 arson attack suspected to be the Mafia’s doing.

In Sorbillo’s place by the oven on Bowery are three of his trusted pizza makers, all whom have worked a minimum of three years at his shops in Naples. His menu is decidedly Italian, from the classic Margherita to the Nduja pie made with spicy Calabrian spreadable salami. And he uses the same organic flour and 20-hour dough fermentation as he does in all his locations. But that detail to quality might not please American taste buds.

According to the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana, the most widely ordered Neapolitan pie is the Margherita (topped with San Marzano tomato sauce, fresh mozzarella and fresh basil) — a strict recipe that falls under the European Union’s “Traditional Speciality Guaranteed” status. For unfamiliar American palates, Adriani says Sorbillo will have to deal with customers who complain that the pizza is soggy.

“We [Neapolitan makers in New York] all have had the same problem … and we each decided how to handle it,” says Adriani of the textural difference. For instance, he adjusted his recipe to use less sauce and ingredients that release less water, such as pre-roasted mushrooms and fresh mozzarella that’s been drained overnight.

Sorbillo says he does not plan to change any of his recipes — his pies are his pies.

His pizza is larger than typical Neapolitan pies seen in the city thus far, with a smaller crust — a style called “ruota di carretto” or wagon wheel. “Our goal is equilibrium around the border with ingredients well-distributed,” Sorbillo says. “Otherwise when you fold it, it’s too [cumbersome] and hard to eat.”

Paul Giannone, better known as the man behind Greenpoint’s Paulie Gee’s, which serves Neapolitan-inspired pies, is optimistic about Sorbillo’s chances.

“It’s not just somebody opening a Neapolitan pizzeria — it’s the most respected Neapolitan pizza maker in Naples, and it’s a great honor to have him,” says Giannone, who is on the brink of opening his first slice joint near his original whole-pies-only location.

No matter what happens in Manhattan, Sorbillo is not afraid.

“I am very stubborn,” he says, “and moving forward with my focus, which is the pizza: tradition, innovation and heritage of place.”


Vaata videot: Forcella NYC - A Pizza New York Fried Pizza (Jaanuar 2022).